From Termini... at the tip of the Amalfi Peninsula. |
Anyway, on with the ride. I got up around 7:30. Breakfast was free at the hostel (Ostello di Sirene), but this did not excite me. I knew it would be most likely a croissant and un caffe. Not exactly fuel for a big ride. Well, that's exactly what it was. I desperately wanted to run to my room to grab my peanut butter to slather on the croissant... but I didn't. Dumb. The first 15 km of my ride was straight uphill to Termini (the end of the Amalfi peninsula). I totally bonked just before the top. I scarfed down one of my last clif bars and took a rest to take in the amazing view. Take a look at a map of the peninsula. Basically, my ride today was completely along the perimeter of the peninsula and Termini was the turning point. So, from its high elevation, I was able to see ocean all around and some beautiful views of Capri. The next 5 km was rolling up and down and then a solid 10 km down to Positano. Now the riding was along a thin road with about a 200-300 m clif to my right diving down into perfectly blue waters.
It was Sunday so there were a lot of Italian cyclist out. I love when we cross paths. They are so warm. Ciao!! with big smiles. I think they respect that I am not the average tourist and of course there is that mutual love of being on a bike. The road was also littered with Ducati's. These guys are assholes... clearly accelerating by me to annoy and get a jump out of me. Guess they had something to prove that they could only do with a big engine between their legs :)
I stopped in Amalfi to have some food and then enjoyed the final 20 km into Salerno. I had 3 km to go and the rains came hard. Drenched, hungry. Stopped in a bar (all coffee shops are called bars) to have un caffe and un bicchiere d'aqcua gassata. The beautiful Italian woman must have thought (and clearly seen) that I was tired, cold, and hungry because she brought me some pastries while I was writing. Another one of those countless experiences I have (think Caputo Molino) where Italians have taken me in like one of their own.
My face lit up with a big smile as I looked up in astonishment.. GRAZIE!!
Amalfi coast... excellent coastal bluffs and riding. |
(A)more Amalfi |
hey caleb -- just heard this on npr and thought you would find it interesting: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=130731888
ReplyDeletenice work on the pizzas and caputo. ride safe. and i'm certain that the guzzi riders are treating you with greater respect. : )
cheerio.
Dear Caleb your writing is so moving...I'm sending your blogspot to my friend in New York who is an Italophile...his name is Tom and maybe he'll write a comment. I can hardly wait until he comes to Flag and I get you to make pizza!
ReplyDeleteCaleb,
ReplyDeleteAre you able to visit Sesti on Friday, November 12th? We should confirm a time for them if so.
Thanks,
Lyle
Lyler@kermitlynch.com